How to connect a router without an outlet

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How to power a router without an outlet

Enjoy quality connectivity with your new Wi-Fi router. We feature a selection of 2.4GHz, 5GHz, and Mesh equipment.

Routers

A Wi-Fi router is a device for connecting to the Internet wirelessly. If you use your computer, laptop, smartphone, TV and other devices to get online, you just need a good router to enjoy your time online. Fortunately, we offer it at an affordable price!

Mesh Systems

Mesh systems are needed to build a stable wireless network coverage over a large area. Several stylish devices will provide you with high-speed Wi-Fi connection in every corner of the house or apartment and allow every member of the family to use the Internet to the maximum without losing connection quality.

How to choose a router?

Manufacturers offer routers with different technical characteristics, so it can be difficult to choose. Before buying, first of all, you should consider the connection speed that the device provides, and compare it with the one provided by the provider. In addition, the device may have additional features:

Take a test and find out which router is right for you

A great option for uninterrupted Internet access

Is it worth talking about the benefits of Wi-Fi at home? Computers, phones, tablets, and TVs all have access to the Internet at the same time. And no wires that go all the way across the rooms.

That's why you need a Wi-Fi router.

Get your home connected to the Internet today

FAQ. Frequently Asked Questions

Wireless network Intersvyaz in Chelyabinsk

Use home Internet is more comfortable with a Wi-Fi router. It converts the wired connection and creates secure access points. Thus, more than one device will be connected to the network: computers, laptops, smart phones and even a "smart" TV. To get started with the equipment, it is set up. As a rule, this procedure does not require any special skills, both confident users and beginners will cope with it. And if you place an order here, Intersvyaz technicians will connect the wireless Internet and configure the router for free.

Connecting IP cameras without wires

It is necessary to organize signal transmission from router to IP camera without laying wires or using unreliable Wi-Fi.

It is often necessary to connect the IP camera to the router when it is not possible to run wires due to the finishing works of the room. The use of wireless Wi-Fi network for these purposes is undesirable due to a number of reasons: interference affecting the network; thick and heavily metallized walls; significant distances. For reliable and correct transmission of large amounts of multimedia data Powerline technology is used, which allows, using two compact adapters, plugged into ordinary 220 volt sockets, to transmit large amounts of data over long distances without losing their quality.

One adapter plugs into a 220 volt outlet near the router, and the second adapter plugs into a 220 volt outlet near the location of the IP-camera. IP-camera plugs into the adapter, receiving its power supply of 220 volts and a communication channel to the router. Then the adapters are configured. Thus, you can connect all your equipment to the router without laying the wires and without the inconvenience of low speed and unreliability of Wi-Fi.

Basic: TP-LINK TL-PA4010PKIT Powerline /500 Mbps Adapter Kit

• Supports HomePlug AV standard, up to 500Mbps data transfer rate – ideal for HD streaming video and online gaming
• Built-in power outlet allows you to connect additional devices to your home network
• Filter for the best data transfer through the home power grid
• Up to 300 meters of coverage through your home's power grid through walls and ceilings between floors
• Patented power-saving mode automatically reduces electricity consumption by 85%
• Pressing the Pair button on the adapter installs 128-bit AES encryption to protect information transmitted over the network
• Supports IGMP protocol for batch transmission over IP networks, optimizing digital TV (IPTV)

Decorative bar on the ceiling

Almost did the kitchen renovation. Did everything myself, after reading your forum (and other similar). Everything ripped off, removed, stripped, flushed, etc. to the ground. Pictures of the beginning of the repair and pouring screed (did not remove everything, but when it worked). The kitchen was expanded due to the closet and got somewhere around 10m. Screed did floating, knocked down to the plate on the plate of sand then extruded polystyrene, with a film on top of the overlap on the walls then a grid (4 mm x 100 mm) and screed 5 cm (polimin LC 2).

There are opinions that to write about faults of builders – is a negative, and we need more positive.

But how without the negative? Everything must be balanced, because everything is perceived in comparison. If you don't talk about the mistakes, and don't work on mistakes, preferably someone else's, it's very likely that sooner or later you will have to work on yours. But if you expose them to the public, it is very likely that there will be fewer of them. At least the specific ones I have shown will definitely disappear.

So, after the floor is disassembled, we begin restoration and insulation.

We make preparations for the places of installation of beams. To do this, we use white spirit diluted rubber-bitumen mastic and roll roof waterproofing as a lining under the beams.

Along the walls, under the beams with the entrance to the walls mounted on a grid to protect against penetration into the house of mice and other evil things. In the process of installation, the entire first floor slab will be bookmarked with mesh.

And the beams and joists and boards are pre-treated with firebioproofing. (before the wood was not treated with anything).

After preparation, beams are placed on the foundation while leveling.

After the beams are leveled, the subfloor joists are nailed to them. On top, the subfloor itself is laid and fastened.

In the center of the living part of the house, a place is left for pouring the base plate to install the fireplace.

Thermal imaging cameras, experience of use, impressions of the devices.

I needed to do a thermal imaging survey of my house for heat leaks. I rented a Bosch GTS 400/ thermal imager.

The device is sharpened for builders: rubberized body, strong suitcase with the insert from a dense slightly soft material that the contents did not dangle during transportation and accidentally was not damaged. Resolution IR-sensor 160 * 120, 3.5 "display. Easy enough to use, the menu is intuitive, to understand on the fly is not difficult. In operation does not slow down, to wait for the reaction to change the localization is not necessary, which is very pleased (I hate slow devices, I can not tolerate.) At revealing of problem places at once it is possible to make photofixation, thus fixation occurs at once in two spectra – visible, and infrared that is rather convenient at the analysis of results. It is quite suitable for the thermal survey of buildings. The results in jpeg format via cable at the end of the examination are downloaded to a computer and are always at hand, which is also convenient.

Minuses: not enough frontal illumination, in dark places it is necessary to use in addition a flashlight, manual focusing, high price, but it as I understand it is connected with certification in Rosstandart (if the purpose of survey – examination, without this certification of device it is impossible to manage). Sometimes there is not enough resolution. I was thinking about buying such a device, but I still have doubts. It will be necessary to look still at the resolution 320*240.

But, despite the minuses, the thing is certainly useful. It allows you to quickly, reliably and clearly identify problems and understand the extent of the problem.

What is a POE injector?

POE injector is a device that can be used to supply power to a network device via twisted pair cable. Power and data are transmitted through the network cable at the same time.

POE injector is used in cases where there is no access to a 220 V socket nearby.

In addition, laying the "twisted pair" is much cheaper and faster than laying a power cable. So using POE technology saves you money and time.

The POE injector has two LAN ports. One is signed "POE" and the other is signed "LAN". The "POE" port connects a POE-enabled network device and the "LAN" port connects a computer, switch or router.

There is another kind of POE – a passive POE injectors. In fact, they are just special adapters that allow remote powering of network equipment, using a standard power supply.

Let's take a closer look at passive POE injectors and where they can be used.

The first example of a passive POE injector is MikroTik Gigabit PoE.

This passive PoE injector is used to remotely power devices with gigabit ports that support POE technology.

The MikroTik Gigabit POE is connected to a standard power supply. Connect the POE injector to your computer, router or switch. Plug an Ethernet network cable into the LAN connector of the injector. On the other side of the Ethernet cable plugged into the LAN socket of the device that supports POE power.

How to power the router if there is no 220 socket nearby

When renovating your house or apartment, every owner thinks about laying the communications.

In addition to basic, heating, sewerage, plumbing and electricity, our lives are hard to imagine without the Internet, television and a variety of low-current media (audio and video) connections.

It would be better to lay all communications still at the stage of rough repair, because wires should be hidden and put into strokes as much as possible.

The provider brings the Internet through a single network cable, for apartments – through the entrance panel, and for private homes – through the attic or any other convenient way.
Further down the road is a computer, but if your house has a lot of devices that need to work with the Internet – put a router.

In order not to screw up the walls and not to cut a lot of holes, especially when you do not plan to start repairs, the router should be with WiFi.

But wireless WiFi has its disadvantages compared to wired and primarily a poor signal in large houses or even just when the house has thick walls of reinforced concrete.
In a high-rise apartment, the presence of a large number of routers at the neighbors, at times will jam the signal of the router and force it to switch between wireless channels, there will be dropped connections and other errors.

During the operation of household appliances, such as the microwave or during rain or thunderstorms the signal will be at a minimum or disappear at all.

You can install several WiFi routers creating a wireless network so that there would be no "dead zones" when the house is large, but anyway wired Internet will be a more reliable option when there is an opportunity at the stage of repair works to lay the network cable and other communications in strokes in the walls.

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